Most visitors climb to Sacré-Cœur, take a photo of the view and head back down. Fair enough, it's a great view.
But Montmartre is a village hiding behind the basilica. Spend an extra hour on the back streets and you'll find the corners that make the hill special.
Place du Tertre: the painters' square
Just behind Sacré-Cœur, Place du Tertre is where artists set up their easels. It's busy, but it's still fun to watch them work.
Go early in the day if you can. The square feels much calmer before the lunch crowd arrives.
If an artist offers to draw your portrait, it's fine to say no politely. If you'd like one, agree on the price before they start.
Le Mur des je t'aime
Near the Abbesses metro, in a small garden square, you'll find the Wall of Love. "I love you" is written on it in many languages.
Can you find your own language? Most visitors spend a few minutes searching. It's a lovely, quick stop.
Rue de l'Abreuvoir and La Maison Rose
Rue de l'Abreuvoir is one of the prettiest streets on the hill: cobbles, old houses and a gentle slope. Take your time here.
At the corner sits La Maison Rose, the little pink house you've probably seen on postcards and social media.
It's one of the most photographed corners of Montmartre, so expect a small queue of cameras. Be patient, take your shot, then look the other way down the street for a quieter view of old Paris.
From here you can wander towards the Montmartre vineyard, one of the few still working inside the city. It reminds you, again, that this hill was once a village of farms and windmills.
Le Passe-Muraille: the man in the wall
On a small square, a bronze man appears to be walking straight through a stone wall. He's Le Passe-Muraille, from a short story by the writer Marcel Aymé.
Look closely at his hand. It's shinier than the rest, because so many visitors shake it.
He's easy to miss, because the square is small and quiet. That's part of the charm: it feels like a secret, even though he's been there for decades.
Montmartre is full of small details like this. A painted shop sign, a hidden staircase, a garden behind a gate. Slow down and look around; the hill rewards curious visitors far more than hurried ones.
Where is the Moulin de la Galette?
Montmartre once had windmills, and the Moulin de la Galette is one of the survivors. It's a reminder that the hill was countryside before it was part of Paris.
Painters loved the dance hall that grew up around it. Renoir's famous painting of it hangs in the Musée d'Orsay.
If you've seen the painting, standing near the windmill is a nice way to connect the art with the real place. If you haven't, it's a good excuse to visit the Orsay on another day.
Tips for exploring
- Wear comfortable shoes: the hill is steep and cobbled.
- Walk up one way and down another.
- Keep an eye on your bag in the busiest spots.
When you're ready to head down, skip the main stairs and take a side street instead. You'll pass quiet squares, small cafés and corners where you can catch your breath, and you'll arrive at the bottom with a much better feel for the neighbourhood.
Montmartre is easy to rush and better to wander. If you'd like someone to link these corners with their stories, our walking tour covers the hill.
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Love hidden corners? Read 7 hidden places guidebooks miss or our Le Marais walking guide.