Le Marais is where medieval Paris survived. The Revolution flattened much of the city; the Marais escaped by being unfashionable at the right moment. Today it is fashionable again — but the 17th-century mansions, the Jewish quarter, and the small courtyards remain.
Here is the walk we use to introduce it.
Start: Place des Vosges
The oldest planned square in Paris, built by Henri IV in 1612. Enter from the north-west corner, walk under the arcades, and sit for a moment on a bench in the central garden. Victor Hugo lived at number 6 — his apartment is now a free museum.
Musée Carnavalet — the history of Paris, for free
Two blocks north. The museum tells the story of the city from prehistory to today, housed in two connected 16th-century mansions. Free permanent collection. Give it 90 minutes and skip nothing on the ground floor.
Rue des Francs-Bourgeois
Walk west from Carnavalet. This is the shopping spine of the Marais — one of the few Paris streets where shops are legally open on Sundays. Small boutiques, concept stores, and pastry shops fill 17th-century facades.
Rue des Rosiers — the Jewish quarter
Turn left onto Rue Vieille du Temple, then right onto Rue des Rosiers. The heart of the historic Pletzl, still home to the best falafel in Paris (L''As du Fallafel is the famous one; Chez Hanna next door is quieter and just as good).
The hidden courtyards
Between Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue de Turenne, push open the heavy wooden doors marked hôtel particulier. The public is generally welcome to enter the courtyards, if not the buildings. Hôtel de Rohan, Hôtel de Soubise, and Hôtel Salé (which houses the Picasso Museum) all reward the effort.
Musée Picasso or Musée Cognacq-Jay
Two small, uncrowded museums within five minutes of each other. Picasso for the collection built by the family after the artist''s death. Cognacq-Jay for 18th-century paintings in a perfect Marais mansion — and it is free.
End: BHV rooftop or a wine bar on Rue Charlot
Two ways to close the walk. The BHV Marais department store has a rooftop bar with a panoramic view of the Hôtel de Ville. Or head north to Rue Charlot in the Haut-Marais for a glass at one of the small natural wine bars.
FAQ
How long does a Marais walk take? Three to four hours at a relaxed pace with one museum stop. Add another hour for lunch.
Are Marais shops open Sundays? Yes — the Marais is one of the few designated tourist zones with Sunday opening. Most shops trade 11am–7pm.
Where should I start the walk from? Metro Saint-Paul (line 1) for Place des Vosges, or Chemin Vert (line 8) if you want to begin at the top of the square.
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