"Where should we eat?" is the question I answer most often. Here are tables we send friends to — organised by where you might be at 7pm.
Near the Louvre
La Régalade Saint-Honoré — modern bistro cuisine, 39 euros for three courses, reservations essential. Two blocks from the Louvre Pyramid.
Juveniles — wine bar with real food, run by a Scot who knows more about French wine than most Parisians. Excellent for solo dining.
In the Marais
Chez Janou — Provençal bistro, checkered tablecloths, chocolate mousse served in a giant bowl from which you help yourself. Book two days ahead.
Breizh Café — the best crêpes in Paris, from Brittany, with Norman butter and Breton cider. Small, popular, book online.
In the Latin Quarter
Le Comptoir du Relais — Yves Camdeborde''s bistro, one of the temples of "bistronomy" in Paris. Walk-in only at lunch; reservations months ahead for the fixed-menu dinner.
Bouillon Racine — Art Nouveau brasserie from 1906, honest French cooking, mains under 15 euros. A rare place where the room and the bill both surprise you.
In Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Chez Fernand — old-school bistro with beef bourguignon, escargots, and a wine list that respects the food. Book ahead.
Semilla — modern French, natural wine, communal energy. Reservations essential.
In Montmartre
Le Coq Rico — poultry-focused restaurant at the top of the Butte, run by chef Antoine Westermann. Whole roasted birds carved at the table.
La Mascotte — hundred-year-old brasserie on Rue des Abbesses, seafood platters and steak, always open, no surprises. A reliable evening on the hill.
Wine bars worth an evening
- Le Verre Volé (10th) — the natural wine bar, tiny, book ahead
- Frenchie Bar à Vins (2nd) — no reservations, arrive at 6:30pm
- La Buvette (11th) — 12 seats, Camille Fourmont''s fridge of cheese, worth the trip
Practical rules
- Book everything two days ahead. Popular places want a week.
- Lunch is cheaper than dinner and often better cooking, since chefs test dishes at midday.
- Sunday and Monday, most independent restaurants close. Plan brasseries or hotel restaurants those nights.
- "Sans réservation" restaurants queue from 6:30pm sharp.
FAQ
How much should I budget for dinner in Paris? A good bistro dinner is 35–50 euros per person without wine. Wine adds 25–40 euros for a shared bottle.
Are reservations really necessary? For anywhere with a name, yes. Use TheFork, LaFourchette, or the restaurant''s own site.
What do Parisians drink with dinner? A glass of white to start, red with the main, sparkling water throughout. Order une carafe d''eau — it is free and expected.
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