Paris in November has a reputation problem. People picture grey skies and bare trees, and some of that is true. But this is also the month the city switches on its lights, opens its first Christmas markets and pours a brand-new wine. If you're flying in this month, here's what's actually happening, and how to plan around the short days.
What's the weather like in Paris in November?
Cool, often damp, and dark early. Expect jacket weather, plenty of overcast days and some rain, so pack layers and shoes that don't mind a wet pavement. The sun sets in the late afternoon, which sounds like bad news until you realise it means you can see Paris lit up without staying out until ten.
Our tip: do museums and indoor sights in the middle of the day, and save the walks for dusk. For a packing list, see our guide to what to wear in Paris, season by season.
Which public holidays fall in November?
Two, and both change how the city runs.
- Sunday 1 November, All Saints' Day (La Toussaint): a public holiday. Many shops close, and some museums run holiday hours.
- Wednesday 11 November, Armistice Day: a national holiday marking the end of the First World War. The President leads a ceremony at the Arc de Triomphe, so expect road closures around the Champs-Élysées in the morning.
On both days, check opening hours before you go. Read the story behind the ceremony in our article on Armistice Day and the flame under the Arc.
When do the Christmas lights and markets start in 2026?
Earlier than most visitors expect. The department stores lead the way: Galeries Lafayette Haussmann unveils its Christmas windows on Thursday 12 November from 6 pm, with a festive design by the French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. BHV Marais is expected to follow on 17 November. Printemps had not announced its date at the time of writing.
The big moment is the Champs-Élysées. The avenue's Christmas lights are due to be switched on on Sunday 22 November 2026, with Cate Blanchett announced as this year's guest, and they stay lit until early January. The same day, a Christmas market is due to return to the avenue for the first time in nearly ten years. Dates like these can shift, so check the official website before you go.
The first Christmas markets open in the same weeks. The Tuileries Garden, between the Louvre and Concorde, hosts one of the city's best-known markets from 14 November 2026 to 3 January 2027. Entry is free; the rides, mulled wine and crêpes are not. It makes an easy add-on after a morning at the Louvre: you walk out of the museum, cross the Carrousel and you're among the chalets in a few minutes.
Planning a December trip instead? Our guide to Christmas in Paris covers what to expect in December.
Two Thursdays to note: Beaujolais Nouveau and Thanksgiving
Every year, on the third Thursday of November, France celebrates the release of Beaujolais Nouveau, a young red wine bottled only weeks after the harvest. In 2026 that's Thursday 19 November. Bistros and wine bars across Paris join in, and you may spot the famous slogan "Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!" on a chalkboard or two.
Is it a great wine? It's a fun one. Light, fruity, meant to be drunk now, not cellared. Think of it as a party rather than a tasting. The Marais and the streets around Montmartre are good places to join in.
Americans in town on Thursday 26 November won't be alone. Thanksgiving isn't a French holiday, so it's a normal working day here, but several Paris restaurants serve Thanksgiving dinners that week. If you want one, book well ahead.
How to see Paris lit up in one evening
November evenings are short on daylight and long on sparkle. You could walk from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe in the cold, or let someone else handle the traffic. Our Paris by Night private car tour takes you past the great illuminated monuments with a licensed guide who also drives. Warm car, great stories, no map-reading in the rain.
[[CTA|See Paris lit up this November with a licensed guide who also drives|Book the Paris by Night tour|Ask a Question|/routes/paris-by-night]]
Read next: Paris at night: what to do after dark, and Christmas in Paris: what to know.